My favorite place in the world: Lake Como!

Some places just do something to you. They move you. It's hard to put into words. People may not really understand you, or your relationship to this place. But it doesn't matter. When you are there, you are happy. At peace. Content. 

For me, this is Lake Como. Forget the glitz and hype about George Clooney. This is MY place. Special to me for my own reasons. I went there 9 years ago on my first trip to Italy and its taken me this long to return. But last weekend I did. I think some of the photos speak for themselves. 

Lake Como was on my "must go" list when I moved here to London, so I was really excited when two of my girlfriends - Jane and Cadence - quickly jumped on board with me. I went earlier than them as I didn't have class Friday which meant I had a half day on my own. I've contemplated taking a trip alone several times as I've heard so many people do who while living abroad. To be honest... I've never really 'needed' to because every time I've wanted to go somewhere, I've had someone to go with me. And I don't have such a strong desire to travel alone that I'd seek it out. However I didn't mind having some alone time in this special place. You do notices a few things differently when doing so though:  

1. When you don't really speak the language and you're alone... It's a bit harder. Especially when it's pouring down rain and your only real option is a local metal bar. Ha!
2. In Italy, you feel a little silly sitting, drinking and eating alone. Italians don't really do that. Eating is social. So... It was kinda weird. 
3. My hike? Loved it alone. 
   
   
   
   
   
   

   

   I hiked up to this lighthouse atop the foothills and had this stunning view.

   

   The sunset was nothing less than spectacular!

4. Exploring in the daylight - also great alone. Gave me some time to think and reflect and it was really therapeutic. I always forget how stunning the churches are there until I see them..
   

It's also quite interesting to compare my experience to Como last time when it was warmer and more in tourist season with this time. One month apparently makes a big difference! It snowed there (albeit unexpectedly) just days before we arrived. So the mountains (or are they foothills?) were snow-capped, making them especially beautiful. And on my hike, I heard a big thud. Scared me.... until I realized it was snow falling off the roof of a house! The towns were nearly deserted! Everything was quiet, not buzzing and humming with the activity I remembered. But I don't think that was bad. It was nice to feel like we had the place to ourselves! It helped that I had great company! 

But we all sort of commented on how we felt like we owned the place a bit. We just had to bundle up a bit more. And take some umbrellas. And really search for a bar - any bar - that was open for a drink after dinner! :)

These are the girls - my friends Jane (an extremely well-traveled Kiwi who's always up for an adventure) and Cadence (an upbeat and fun Aussie).

They got in laaaate Friday night and we stayed up way too late drinking wine and talking in our very nice "hostel" in Como. Then Saturday morning we got up, got some espresso, and set off on the ferry boat to take us to the little town of Bellagio where we were staying Saturday night. Cadence had never been to Italy ever, so it was kind of fun for Jane and I to be a part of her first Italian experience.

On the way to Bellagio, there was so much mist coming off of the lake that a "vertical" rainbow appeared! It was stunning!

We stayed in a lakefront hotel, where despite things being slightly rundown we found everything to be quite charming. We had a view of the lake from our bedroom! Cadence was particularly excited that there was also a view from the bathroom so she could see it while taking a bath (see below)! And the waiters all had super crushes on us!

We may have had a little too much fun on the posh-looking red velvet couches. 

Saturday we explored. Strolled around the cobblestone streets of Bellagio. Meandered if you will. We had gelato (duh)!  

We bought a bunch of cheese, cured meats, olives, focaccia and Prosecco from a market and sat along the late with our feast just eating, talking and soaking up the beautiful view and enjoying how lucky we were to be there. 

For dinner that night, we ate seafood at a great place in town that was sooooo quiet. Haha. It was one of those times we realized it truly was off season. At the wine bar next door, we spoke with a few people who surprisingly were all from Bellagio! No tourists! Again... off season. AND highlight for me: I was told twice (in front of the girls so there are witnesses!) that I spoke perfect Italiano!!! No need to call attention to the fact that it was just a couple of words. I think I sold them on my accent! ;)

Sunday was a bit nicer weather, so we caught a ferry and headed to the nearby town of Varenna. 

Ok this shows both Varenna AND Menaggio...

The ferry rides alone gave you fabulous views of the lake, the mountains and the towns. 

Varenna was a very different town. We started off there going on a proper hike. We were in search of a serious one, but given the cloud cover, the recent snow and our time constraints, we did more of a walk/hike up a VERY VERY steep foothill to see a castle ....

and some panoramic views that would take your breath away. It actually reminded both Jane and I of Cinque Terre a bit.

After our hike, we rewarded ourselves with what I think may have been the best Italian food I've had in recent memory. We found this off-the-beaten-path place from a tour book, sat down, promptly ordered wine and mussels to share, and then debated what pastas to get. I have to tell you... I'm not a huuuuge red sauce fan with my mussels, but WOW, these were the best I've had!

In addition to my amazing meal in the top two photos, the pizza to the left I single-handedly devoured waiting for the girls Friday night, and the huge salad was actually a big surprise to me! There was a great restaurant with a 2 page menu of salads!

Cadence and I split two dishes, and this handmade pasta with a cream sauce and mushrooms literally rocked my world. I ate more than I had any business eating, and felt fabulous about it! 

Some more strolling around Bellagio later, we went back to catch the ferry back to Como where we would catch our train, only to find out we were given the wrong ferry time! Yikes! We paid for that mistake with an expensivo black car taxi ride racing along the coast to catch our train. Bonus - our cab driver told us (in very poor English) that he's driven George Clooney before! 

I had a hard time leaving. I know you say that any time you leave a vacation...but truly this place has embedded itself in my heart in some special way. It was so lovely to come back and be reminded of how amazing it was, and to realize that I felt the same way about it this time as I did so many years ago. And it was fabulous to have traveled with such great friends who made the trip even better!

 Arrivederci Como!